There is a ton of questions that surround us as we start to look at what we should and should not look for. The first question we should have answered before we headed to the lot was, what do we want? Currently we are in a Class A because of the back bedroom. My wife is not much for the over the cab sleepers. But the more we look we have found that there is a number of Class C’s that has rear sleepers as well. We started to look at a few that really caught our eye, but after talking to the dealers we were really surprised on how much they were not willing to negotiate in the price. To be honest I was floored. So over the next couple weeks maybe months I am documenting on what we are looking at.
First off we stumbled onto a 5th wheel. The original idea was that the option would be just way out of the budget. The trailers are nice, but what are you supposed to do if you don’t already own the truck you need to pull it. After doing our math we have found that we may be able to look into one of these. I will walk though what we have and have not like about our choices and go from there. As I was surfing tonight for information I found a great website that has helped me a lot in what I should look for. The site is located here:
http://www.happyvagabonds.com/OtherRV/how_to_buy_a_used_rv.htm
The list is a partial and I have added a few items that I think are of importance. I am reposting the list, but will be using this as a guideline over the next few weeks.
1. Does the trailer jack work?
2. Do the propane bottles need updating and inspection? This can be costly if the bottles need to be replaced. Generally, if an RV propane tank is older than twelve years, it will have to be re-inspected every five years. Also, it is mandatory that the propane tank have an OPD valve. If you don’t know what an OPD valve is, the official description is “Overfilling Protection Device”. If the top of the valve doesn’t look like this picture, it will have to be replaced.
3. Check the hoses leading away from the propane bottle for cracks and splits. You do not want a leaking propane connection. Check the nut that screws into the propane tank. Is it worn? If so, it may need to be replaced.
4. The LP Gas regulator is usually located just a few inches away from the propane tanks. You’ll see the hoses leading from the propane tanks into a device with one pipe at the bottom of it that runs beneath the RV. Regulators begin to leak when they are approximately ten years old. For your information, leaking propane is not a good thing. Don’t hesitate to replace the regulator if it is leaking.
5. Batteries are often dead, or not too far from dead, in an older RV. Check and make sure it still works. If the bulbs inside burn bright, the battery(s) may still be in decent condition.
6. Does the converter still work? What’s a converter? Well, it is a device that recharges your battery and converts regular household electrical current from AC to DC allowing your 12-Volt fixtures and appliances to operate. Test this by plugging in the electrical cord and unhooking the battery (unhook the battery before you plug in the RV power cord to prevent electrocution). If the 12-Volt lights and water pump still work, the converter is still working.
7. Do the stabilizers beneath the trailer still let up and down? You’ll be glad to have stabilizers when you park in an area with constant wind gusts like the south Texas coast.
8. Are the tires still in good condition? Check for cracks and splits and look at tread depth on all tires.
9. It is absolutely mandatory that you understand the condition of the braking system. Have the owner hook up the RV and allow you to tow for a short distance and test test the brakes. Brake repairs are expensive. Your life and the safety of your vehicle and RV depend on the RV brakes functioning properly every time.
10. Does the door step let up and down easily?
11. Can you open and close all outside compartments easily? Do the gaskets need to be replaced? Worn or missing gaskets permit air and moisture to penetrate the RV.
12. Make sure that all the windows open and close easily. latches can rust shut. Are the screens on the windows and vents rusted or torn?
13. Open and close roof vents and make sure that vent fans run properly.
14. Fire up the hot water heater and make sure it works.
15 Test the refrigerator on both the gas and electric settings. Repairs can be expensive and you are going to want to use both the gas and electric options. Watch for frost beginning to form in the freezer to confirm that it is cooling properly. Make sure the door will latch and lock securely. When you are on the road, you don’t want the fridge contents strewn through your RV.
16. Check the furnace. Does it blow hot air? Don’t wait until it’s thirty degrees outside to find out.
17. Crank up the air conditioner. Does it blow cold air? If it has a heating element does that work as well?
18. Turn on the water tap without being hooked up to city water. Does the water pump work?
19. Check out the toilet. Does it flush properly.
20. Hook up the city water. Check for leaks inside and outside the RV.
21. Inquire about the condition of the waste water valves. Better yet, if the RV is hooked up to a sewer drain, open and close the valves to make sure they work.
22. Check the cooking range and oven. Do all burners function? Does the oven burner function?
23. Do all interior cabinets and drawers open and then latch securely? If not, you may have your belongings scattered throughout your RV when you are in transit.
24. Check for soft spots on the floor, particularly in the bathroom area. The plywood may be rotted through.
25. Is the flooring in good condition? How about interior walls?
26. Make sure curtains are not dry rotted. Can they be easily cleaned? Are the blinds still in good condition?
27. External lights – Test the external running lights. If you tow at night, and it is very likely that you will, you’ll want to make sure that the rear tail lights are operable. Simply hook up to the tow vehicle and turn on the headlights. You’ll also want to make sure that the brake lights work, that the right and left turn signal lights work, and that the backup lights work. If there is a problem, it could be a faulty bulb, or the bulb fixture simply needs cleaning. Otherwise, you may be faced with an electrical problem.
28. Test exhaust vent fans to make sure they work. Typically you will find them in the living area, over the cooking range, and in the bathroom.
29. Does the TV antenna crank up and down easily?
30. If TV is important are the screens new, is the rig digital ready?
31. Does the owner have all the past paperwork like maintenance records and manuals for add on gear?
32. Is the bed in a condition that you can use it, my back is bad and I need some extra materials?
33. What are they including in the transaction? Dish, Hoses, Wires, wheel covers…
34. Do they have winterizing instructions?
35. Do they know the history of the vehicle?
36. Do the pull out beds work?
37. Does the rig have a comfortable table, does it lay down and make a bed and if so does it matter for your use.
38. Does the sensors for Clean and Black water work, how about the other sensors?
Over the next few days I will post on why we picked what class we did and what our motivation factors were. If you think of something to add to the list please let me know.